Ushered inside by the friendly bouncers bookending the weighty glass doors, we found the dimly-lit Roka Mayfair buzzing at full capacity for a Thursday lunch , yet clearly this was just a normal service judging from the serene expressions on the faces of the front of house team. This Japanese robatayaki restaurant is fast and furious, and that’s the way they like it…

As my hosts were late I waited at our table . It was easy to be entertained by the focal point of the room; the robata grill where five chefs (who didn’t look remotely Japanese) successfully managed an avalanche of orders as proficiently as master Iaido swordsmen slicing through tatami mats. The aromas from the grill are also seriously hunger-inducing and, whilst there are tables on the main floor, parties of one or two can enjoy a ringside counter seat, fully embracing the original concept of Roka; ‘ro’ meaning a meeting place where friends can enjoy food and drink together, and ‘ka’ meaning warmth and surrounding energy.

Featuring natural wood and steel, acclaimed interior designer, Noriyoshi Maramatsu’s interpretation of contemporary and urban Japanese style has made it impossible to recognise the former NatWest bank that was once here.

When you turn your attention to the menu after all that people-watching you’ll find it easy to navigate irrelevant of how familiar you are with this type of cuisine, as it takes diners on a journey of sushi, sashimi, salads, and of course, specialities prepared on the robata grill. Whilst the food celebrates traditional Japanese techniques and flavours, Roka partners these with ingredients we typically associate with European cuisine such as truffle and foie gras, and the result in a pleasantly surprise.

The star dish was Roka’s legendary “gindara no saikyo-yaki”; black cod marinated in yuzu miso presented in a leaf; a traditional Japanese dish that ensures the fish melts in the mouth, while the fruity marinade isn’t only citric but has just enough sweetness to enhance the natural flavour of the cod without overpowering it.